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No. 624,792. Patented May 9, I899. J. GUTMANN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 14, 1897.) (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet I.

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No. 624,292.. Patented May 9, I899.

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BUTTDNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 14, 1897.)

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BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 14, 1897.)

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No. 624,792. Patented May 9, I899.

J. GUTMANN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 14, 1897.)

(No Model.) 4 Sheets$heet 4.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JULIus GUTMANN, OF'BERLIN, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR TO THE FIRMA FABRIK FUR SPEZIALNAHMASOHINEN ACTIEN-GESELLSCHAFT, (PATENTE JULIUS GUTMANN,) or ZURICH, SWITZERLAND.

BUTTONHOLE-S EWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 624,792, dated May 9, 1899.

Application filed August 14, 1897. Serial No. 648,319. (No model.)

To ctZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JULIUS GUTMANN, a sub ject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Berlin, Germany, have invented certain new 5 and useful Improvements in Buttonl1ole-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention has relation to that type of I buttonhole-sewin g machines organized to first bind the edges of a buttonhole in the usual manner and bar the ends thereof by stitches laid parallel with said edges, or substantially so, as described and shown in United States Letters Patent No. 615,165, granted to me November 29, 1898, the present invention having for its object certain improvements residing chiefly in the provision of means for controlmay be varied irrespective of the length andwidth of the buttonhole, and whereby the barring-stitches are or maybe made tointerlock with the binding-stitches at the ends of a buttonhole, so as to virtually bar the said binding-stitches also.

As in the machine shown in my said patent,

above referred to, the work-holder is so arranged as to hold the work with the buttonhole lengthwise of the bed-plate, the needlebar N and needle N receiving a vertical reciprocatin g motion as well as a vibrating motion crosswise of the buttonhole for the formation of the binding-stitches, during which operation the work-holder receivesa progressive feed motion lengthwise of said butt-onhole. A

For the formation of the barring-stitches the needle-bar reciprocates vertically only, while the work-holder receives a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole and simultaneously therewith a progressive feed r hereinafter, comprises a slide q, having mow. I

motion crosswise of said buttonhole,the s'titclr forming appliances being of any well-known or desired or suitable description.

Figure 1 is'a side elevation of a buttonholesewing machine embodying myinvention andillustrating the parts in their position shortly before the completion of the binding of a buttonhole edge. Figs. 1 and 1 are stitch diagrams. Fig. 1 is a sectional detail view of the work-holder carrier. Fig. 2 is an elevation of the mechanism that controls the feed of the work-holder, the parts being shown in their respective positions immediately before the beginning of the binding of a buttonhole edge. Fig. 2 is a cross-section of the main driving-shaft at the right of the sleeve thereon. Fig. 3 is an under side view, and Fig. 4:

a top plan View, of the bed-plate and the mechanism supported therefrom, the overhanging machine-a-rm being removed in Fig. 4, said figure also showing diagrammatically by arrows the movements of the work-holder.

The vertical reciprocating motion is imparted to the needle-bar N from the main driving-shaft a, which has its bearings in the overhanging machine-arm. The vibrating motion is imparted to the needle-bar through its swinging frame N from a shaft 2' that is geared to shaft a and has its bearings on one side of the overhanging machine-arnnand the vibratory motion of said needle-bar is stopped by a stop-bar Z, that carries a locking-wedge Z at its outer or left end, which engages the swinging needle-bar frame N Finally, the feed-wheel it receives its progressive rotation from a pawl P, Fig. 3, which is reciprocated by a suitable lever operated or vibrated by a cam-grooved sleeve on the shaft 1, said feedwheel having on its upper face or in a discoidal projection of less diameter than its toothed portion a suitable cam or heart-shaped groove m, from which the work-holder receives its progressive feed motion, all of which mechanism is well known and operates in the usual manner or as. described in my patent above referred to.

The work-holder, more specifically described tion both lengthwise and crosswise'of the b the feed-wheel h.

plate f, and consequently of the buttonhole, and from the under side of said slide depends a post 17 that projects through a longitudinal slot in a lower slide S, Figs. 1 and 3. To the post 13 is pivoted one end of a link L, whose opposite end carries a bolt that extends through a segmental slot in aleverL and has a nut whereby said link is adjustably secured to said lever, which latter is f ulcrumed at Z to the under side of the bed-plate f and has at its free end a pin 1), carryinga roller,which projects into the aforesaid cam-groove m on feed-wheel h, and from which cam-groove and the aforementioned lever and link the workholder slide q receives its progressive feed motion lengthwise of the buttonhole in one or the other direction. The slide 8, below the bed-plate f and above the feed-wheel h, has mot-ion transversely of said bed-plate or crosswise of the buttonhole on suitable guideplates 19 -19 Fig. 3, said slide being acted upon by springs SS, which tend to move the slide in one direction across the bed-plate. The slide S is connected with the slide q, so as to cause'the two to move together and to admit of slide (1 moving lengthwise of the bedplate independently of' said slide S, the two forming cross-slides, whereby I am enabled to dispense with the mechanism for coupling the work-holder to the appliances which impart to it its progressivefeed motion in binding a buttonhole edge and uncoupling said workholder from said mechanism to admit of its reciprocation lengthwise of the buttonhole in barring an end thereof, as described in my patent mentioned above.

To the slide S is secured a pin 19 that carries a roller, which n nder the stress of springs S S is held against and caused to ride along the outer face of a circular projection 72 on The projection n has at diametrically opposite points recesses 3 and 3*, the depth of which gradually increases, said recesses being formed by the inward curvature or convergence of the periphery of said projection at the points referred to, so that as the roller on pin p rides down one incline the slide S follows its movement under the action of the springs S, thereby gradually moving said slide, and with it the work-holder slide q, crosswise of the buttonhole. When, on the contrary, the roller on pin p rides up the other incline, the slide S will be moved against the stress of its springs S crosswise of the bed-plate in an opposite direction to the first, as will be readily understood.

The mechanism which controls the feed of the work-holder both lengthwise as well as crosswise of the buttonhole is constructed and organized as follows: On the main drivingshaf-t a is mounted a sleeve a so as to slide freely thereon and revolve therewith,to which end the said shaft has a longitudinal groove a for the reception of a spline or key fitting a corresponding groove in the sleeve. Onehalf of this sleeve a namel the right half nearer to the driving end of the machine has a left-hand screw-thread 01, while the left half or the half nearest to the needle-bar end of the machine has a right-hand screw-thread a In the right half from the end thereof toward the left the sleeve of is slotted and its bore is of greater diameter than'the shaft a for the reception of a second sleeve, on which is formed a longitudinal rib a which projects into said slot, one side of said rib hav= ing the form of a cam or wiper in cross-section, the nose of which lies flush with the thread on the sleeve, or substantially so, said sleeve being adjustable lengthwise in said slot.

On the overhanging machine-arm is ful crumed a bell-crank lever B, the fulcrum-pin for which projects into said arm and has secured, thereto a T-lever 3, the horizontal arms b b of which are provided with a tooth c and 0, respectively, adapted to be brought into engagement with the threads of the right and left threaded portions of the sleeve a the construction and arrangement being such that both teeth 0 and 0 can at no time be brought simultaneously into engagement lever'B may be, whereby all danger of injury to the mechanism is avoided.

The vertical arm I) of the angle-lever B is ad justably secured to a stop-bar Z through the medium of a screw-pin 12 passing through a vertical slot 13 in the end of said lever-arm b and a nut 14 on said pin, said bar Z carrying at its forward or left-end a wedge-shaped pin Z, adapted to engage the needle-bar frame N in such manner as to lock it against vibration without interfering with the rotation of the shaft 1' and the cam or other appliance that imparts a vibrating motion to said frame.

As hereinbefore stated, the means for looking the needle-bar frame N against vibration are shown and described in my patent hereinbefore referred to.

To the horizontal arm b of the angle-lever B is pivotally connected a lock-bar e, that has near its lower end a guide-slot 6, Figs. 1, 2, and 4, and below said guide-slot an offset or shoulder 6 adapted to seat on the lefthand edge of a longitudinal slot f formed in the bed-platef of the machine, the bar being normally held to its seat on the bed-plate by a spring 6 The said bar extends through the aforesaid slot into the forked end g of a lever g, Fig. 3, fulcrnmed at g to a post on the under side of the bed-plate f, and about midway of its length said lever carries a rollerg Figs. 2 and 3, in the path of two abutments or cam projections h and 71, on diametrically opposite sides of the feed-wheel h.

headed pin (Z havinga spring (1 coiled about it between its head and the under side of the nut. The head of the pin (Z has bearing on the arm b of lever B, the spring (1 tending to force said arm downward, the tension of the spring being regulated through the medium of the nut d.

In the lower part of the guide-slot eof lockbar 6 above the bed-plate f works a lever 1 that has a downwardly-projectin g lug 2' at its forward end, Fig. 1, while its rear end is fulcrumed to the end of the lower arm of a twoarmed rock-lever t, that receives motion through the medium of a cam-grooved sleeve i on the exterior shaft 2' that vibrates the needle-bar frame N Fig. 1, hereinbe'fore referred to, so that the lever i so long as the machine is in operation is continuously re-.

ciprocated in the direction of the length of the bed-plate f or lengthwise of the buttonhole. There is a spring 2' Figs. 1 and 4, the

- free end of which has bearing on lever 11 and tends to press the same downward, but is prevented from doing so so long as the lock-bar e is seated 011 or held to the bed-plate f byits spring a but when said lock-bar e is unseated and moved downward in the slot of said bed-plate then under the stress of its spring '6 the said lever 2' is caused to follow the movement of the said lock-bar to engage one or the other of two transverse slots 70 formed in a plate 70, secured to the work-holder slide q hereinafter described,v and whereby the short reciprocating motions lengthwise of the buttonhole in barring an end thereof are imparted to the work-holder without interfering with its progressive feed motioncrosswise of the buttonhole, the said slots 70 and 10 being for this purpose made of the required length, as shown in Fig. 4.

The work-holder is constructed as follows, reference being had to Figs. 1, 1 3, and i:

. A main slide g, which has motion both lengthwise and crosswise of-the bed-plate and buttonhole, as hereinbefore stated, receives a progressive feed motion lengthwise of the buttonhole in one or the other direction from the eccentric portions of the cam-groove min feed-wheel h and its like feed motion crosswise of the buttonhole in one or the other direction from the cam-face n on said feed- Wheel 71, as hereinbefore stated. This slide g has longitudinal guideways, in which is fitted a slide q which has a limited motion in said guideways and has secured thereto the 'lon-' To the gitudinally-slotted work-support q. rigl1t-hand end of the slide q is secured the laterall y-projectin g coupling-plate is, hereinbefore mentioned as provided with the transverse coupling-slots It 70 The slide q has formed in its upper face an oblong concaverecess for the reception of a correspondingly convex boss r on the under side of a coupling-plate 0, said recessbeing slightly longer than the said boss to aiforda slight longitudinal motion to plater independently of slideq The boss r is held in the afore-.

said recess in slide q by a coiled spring r, interposed between the coupling-plate'r and the plate or carrier that carries the cloth clamp and stretcher, said coupling-plate r being hinged to a pintle 1 secured in lugs or ears (1 on the slide q at the left-hand end thereof, and as the said plate r is likewise hinged to pintle q the spring 4 performs the twofold function of coupling the carrier plate 8 through plate 0 by frictional contact with the slide q and of holding said carrier 3 to the work, while by depressing the plate r the cloth-clamp is lifted to admit of the insertion andwithdrawal of the work. There is, however, another very important improvement involved in the relative arrangement of the work-holder slides in that the slide cffiand consequently the work-holder, is constrained to partake of the progressive feed motion of the slide q lengthwise of the buttonhole in the operation of binding an edge thereof and of the like motion crosswise of said buttonhole in the operation of barring an end thereof and simultaneously therewith reciprocate lengthwise of said buttonhole in said operation of barring independently of slide g, which motion, as hereinbefore stated, is imparted to slide q from vibrating lever 1', lever 2', and plate 70, whereby I am enabled, as above stated, to dispense with the more or less complicated mechanism described in my patent herein referred to, wherebyin the operation of binding the work-holder is coupled to the feed-lever and uncoupled therefrom in the operation of barring in order to enable it to reciprocate lengthwise of the button-hole. 7

respondingly-arched bar i, the left end of which is constructed in the form of an oblong rectangular frame 25, Fig. at, provided with journals 2?, that project into the aforesaid slots 8 and with bearings s at oppositeends for the journals on cloth clamping and stretching jaws t toothed on the under side of their longitudinal edges and having slight motion in a plane parallel with their longitudinal axis, so as to yield somewhat when pressed down on the work by the spring r. It will thus be seen that when the carriers is pressed down against the stress of spring r the frame 2 will be slightly displaced longitudinally in that its journals I? slide along the slots 5 and when said carrier is released and forced dlown onto the cloth by its said spring 4" the toothed jaws 25 by reason of their being pivoted in a plane parallel with their longitudinal axis in frame i will spread laterally, and thereby stretch the cloth and hold it firmly for sewing.

In practice I have found that when a machine of the class described and .provided half of said controlling-screw a operated by a ratchet and pawl, is driven very rapidly the movements of said wheel are liable to be irregular in that the momentum of the wheel is apt to revolve the same a greater distance at each impulse of the pawl than is required, or said wheel is liable to be moved backward by the frictional contact of the pawl with the. ratchet-teeth of the wheel. In order thatthis may be efiectually avoided, I provide afriction-brake, Figs. 1 and 3, in the form of a band, preferably a steel bandbrake o, the ends of which are secured to the arms 0 o. of a bell-crank lever,on the f ulcrumpin 0 of which is secured a radial arm 0 againstwhich bears an adjusting-screw p, by means of which the frictional contact of the band with the periphery of the groove in wheel h, in which said band is fitted, can be nicely regulated.

In Figs. 1, 3, and 4 I have shown the various mechanisms in their respective positions immediately before the beginning of the binding of a buttonhole edge or immediately before the ending of a barring operation, the feed-controlling sleeve being about to. reach the limit of its motion toward the left and the tooth c on arm I)? of lever B about to come in contact with the tripping cam-rib a If it be assumed that a buttonhole is to be sewed by successively binding an ed ge,.barring one end, then binding the opposite edge, and finally barring-the opposite end, the operation of the mechanism will be as follows: As the main ing the tooth c on its arm 19 into engagement with the right-hand screw-thread a on left This movement of the lever B causes the lever B to swing toward the right, thereby moving the lock-bar Z in the same direction, whereby the needle-bar frame N is released and will be vibrated by the mechanism operated from shaft 2' and reciprocated vertically by the mechanism operated from'main shaft a, as is necessary to the formation of the bindingstitches. At the same time the lever B lifts the bar 6, the lower end of which is guided in the forked end of lever g, and the spring e draws said bar to its seat on the bed-plate f.

The bar e at the same time lifts the lever i against the stress of its spring 2' out of engagement with the left-hand slot in coupling-plate k on work-holder slide q which places the parts in condition for binding. As the feed-wheel h and controlling-sleeve a revolve the work-holder receives a progressive feed motion toward the left-2'. e., lengthwise of the buttonhole, arrow I, Fig. 4-while said thread on the right half of' said sleeve.

'lel with its edges or substantially so. I operations continue until the tooth c on lever B is again lifted clear of the left-hand thread sleeve under the action of tooth con lever B gradually moves in an opposite direction, or

' as heretofore stated, crosswise of the buttonhole. These movements of the needle-bar and sleeve a has reached the limit of its motion .toward the right, Fig. 2, the levers B and B being held against vibration and the former lever against the action of its spring 61 by the lock-bar e. WVhen the sleeve a has reached the limit of its motion toward the left, atwhich time the pin 19' on feed-lever L has entered the concentric portion 1 of cam-groove'm, Fig. 3,.

thereby stopping theprogressive feed motion of the work-holder, simultaneously therewith the cam projection k on feed-wheel hacts upon the roller g on lever g, swingsthe same toward the right, Fig. 3, and thereby unseats the lockbar 6, which drops. The downward movement of the lock-bar tilts the lever-arm b of lever B toward the right, whereby the stop-bar Z is moved in the opposite direction to lock the needle-bar frame N against vibration, and as the lever B is secured to the fulcrum-pin of lever B the former lever will be caused to swing toward the right, this movement being assisted by the spring (i thereby moving the tooth 0' out of reach of the right-hand thread on the left. half of controlling-sleeve a and the tooth '0 into engagement with the left-hand At the same time the lock bar 6 as it drops moves the coupling-lever i into engagement with the right-hand slot 70 in coupling-plate k, and simultaneously with these operations the roller on pin 19 on slide S, being about to ride down the incline 3 on the projection n on feed-wheel 71, causes said slide, underthe action of its springs S, to move crosswise of the buttonhole, arrow 11, Fig. 4. The needlebar reciprocates vertically only. The controlling-sleeve Ct moves gradually toward the left. The work-holder reciprocates lengthwise of the buttonhole, arrow V, Fig. 4, and simultaneously therewith moves progressively in the direction of arrow II, whereby one end of a buttonhole is barred by stitches laid paral- These (t in the right half of the controlling-screw a, at which time the mechanism described is actuated as above set forth and positioned for binding the opposite edge of the button hole, during which operation the eccentric portion 2 of the cam-groove m acts upon pin 19 of lever L, thereby reversing'the direction of progressivefeed of the work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole, arrow Ill, Fig. 4. When this second edge of the buttonhole is I A v I in the opposite concentric portion 2 of camgroove m, while lever t' is coupled to workholder through the right-hand slot 7r, in coupling-plate it, for purposes stated. Finally, the pin 19 on the lower slide S rides along the inclines 3 on the circular shoulder or flange n 011 feed-wheel 7t, gradually feeding said slide S, together with the work-holder, against the stress of the springs S crosswise of the bedplate f and buttonhole in a direction opposite to the first like feed motion of said slide S and work-holder, arrow IV, Fig. 4, thus returning the parts, together with the work, to the starting-point.

From what has been said it will be seen that the sleeve ed, the feed-wheel h, and the mechanisms operated thereby control the extent of the feed movements of the work holder both in binding and in barring-that is to say, the distance to which said work-holder is moved to bind an edge or bar an end of a buttonhole. Hencetheydeterminethelength of edge to be bound or barred, while the sleeve a determines the amplitude of the feed movement of the work-holderthat is to say, the amplitude of each step of said movements. Hence the distance between the stitchesor the number of stitches made in binding or barring is such that the first and last few barring-stitches interlock one or more bindingstitches at the buttonhole ends, Figs. 1 and 1 thus practically barring the edge seams. This is accomplished inthat the barring begins the moment the needle leaves the fabric after the last stitch has been laid, and byimparting to the work-holder a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole. of such amplitude as that the first and last three, more or less, barring-stitches will interlock the end binding-stitch.

As the controlling-sleeve a is' not rigidly connected with shaft a, it is obvious that a series of such sleeves can be interchangeably used,which sleeves may be of different lengths to suit the length of the buttonhole to be sewed, while the right and left threaded portions a a of said sleeve may have a greater or less number of threads to the inch to vary the number of stitches made during the said movements of the screw.

Having thus described my invention, what IGlEtlLll as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- 1. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combinationwith the stitch-forming appliances comprising'a reciprocating and vibrating needle bar, mechanism for periodically stopping the vibration of said needle-bar, theworkholder, feed mechanism for imparting to said work-holder a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive motion crosswise of the buttonhole while said needle-bar reciprocates only, and mechanism for reciprocating the work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole during its progressive n10- tion crosswise thereof; of means for determining the amplitude of the aforesaid progressive movements of the work-holder, for the purpose set forth.

2. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar, mechanism for periodically stopping the vibration of said needlebar, the work-holder, mechanism for imparting to said work-holder first a progressive feed motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, while the needle-bar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive feed motion crosswise of saidbuttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates only, said mechanism determining the extent of said progressive movements, and mechanism for imparting to the work-holder a reciprocating motionlengthwise of the buttonholeduring its progressive motion crosswise thereof; of a controlling device for determining the amplitude of each I step of the aforesaid progressive movements of the Work-holder, for the purpose set forth.

3. In a buttonhole-sewin g machine, the 00111 bination with stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar, the work-holder, feed mechanism for imparting to said work-holder first a progressive motion lengthwiseof the buttonhole while'the needle-bar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive motion crosswise of the buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates only,

and mechanism for reciprocating the workholder lengthwise of the buttonhole during its progressive motion crosswise thereof; of a controlling device for determining the amplitude of the aforesaid progressive movements .ofthe Work-holder, and mechanism controlled by said device for periodically stopping the vibration of the needle-bar, for the purpose set forth.

4. In abuttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with stitch-formingappliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar, the work-holder, and feed mechanism for imparting to said workholder first a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive motion crosswise of the buttonhole, while the needle-bar reciprocates only; of a controlling device for determining the amplitude of the aforesaid progressive movements of the work-holder,and appliances controlled by the feed mechanism for imparting to said work-holder a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole during its progressive feed motion crosswise thereof, forthe purpose set forth.

5. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,the combination withstitch-forming appliances com prising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar, the work-holder, and feed mechanism for imparting to said workrholder first a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive motion crosswise of said buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates only; of a controlling device for determining gressive movements of the work-holder, for

the amplitude of the aforesaid progressive movements of the work-holder,and means controlled by the feed mechanism and the afore said controlling device for imparting to the work-holder a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole during its progressive motion crosswise thereof, for the purpose set forth.

6. Inabuttonhole-sewingmachine,the combination with a reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar, mechanism for periodically stopping the vibration of said needle-bar, the work-holder, feed mechanism for imparting to said work-holder first a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole while the needlebar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive motion crosswise of said buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates only, mechanism for reciprocating the work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole dn ring its progressive motion crosswise thereof, and mechanism for repeating these operations and reversing the direction of the progressive movements of the work-holder; of 'a controlling device for determining the amplitude of the aforesaid prothe purpose set'forth.

7; In abuttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with the stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar, the work-holder, feed mechanism for imparting to said work-holder first a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole while the needle-bar reciprocates and vibrates, then a progressive motion crosswise of the buttonhole while said needle-bar reciprocates only,

and mechanism for reciprocating the work-- holder lengthwise of the buttonhole during its progressive motion crosswise thereof; of a revolving and to-and-fro-moving right and left threaded screw and mechanism controlled thereby and determining the amplitude of the aforesaid progressive movements of the workholder, for the purpose set forth.

8. In abn ttonhole-sewin g machine,the combination with stitch-forming appliances, the work-holder, and feed mechanism for impartin g to said work-holder a progressive motion; of the main driving-shaft, a right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and moving endwise on said shaft, and mechanism operated by the sleeve and determining the amplitude of the progressive movements of the work-holder, for the purpose set forth.

9. In abuttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar, the work-holder, a progressively-rotating feed device, mechanism operated by said device to periodically impart to the workholder aprogressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, and means for periodically imparting to said work-holder a progressive motion crosswise of the buttonhole; of the main driving-shaft, a right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and moving to and fro on said shaft, and mechanism controlled by the sleeve and feed device for stopping the vibrations of the needle-bar and simultaneously reciprocating the work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole during its progressive motion crosswise thereof, for the purpose set forth.

10. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the main driving-shaft, a right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and having endwise motion on'said shaft, the lever 13', the horizontal arms of which are provided with a tooth to engage one or the other threaded portion of saidsleeve, and an abutment at the outer end of the left-threaded portion in the path of the tooth in engagement therewith and acting upon the same to-tilt the lever and move the other tooth into engagement with the right threaded portion; of stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar, a lockbar for lock in g said needle-bar against vibration, a work-holder, mechanism for imparting a progressive feed motion to said work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole, and means for moving the lock-bar and allowing the needlebar to vibrate when the aforesaid lever is tilted, as set forth, for the purpose specified.

11. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the main driving-shaft, a right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and having endwise motion on said shaft, the

lever B, the horizontal arms of which are pro vided with a tooth to engage one or the other threaded portion of said sleeve, and an abutment at the outer end of the left-threaded portion in the path of the tooth in engagement therewith and acting upon the same to tilt the lever and move the other tooth into engage- .ment with the right-threaded portion; of

12. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the' combination with the main driving-shaft, a right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and having endwise motion on said shaft, the T-lever B having teeth 0 and c, a spring tending to tilt the aforesaid lever to move tooth 0 into engagement and tooth 0 out of engagement with said left and right threaded portions respectively; of stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibratin needle-bar the work-holder and feed mechanism forimparting tosaid work-holder progressive feed movements first lengthwise and then crosswiseof the buttonhole, a second lever rocked by lever B, a lock-bar connected with said second lever and provided right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and having endwise motion on said shaft, the T-lever B provided with teeth 0 c, a spring tending to tilt said lever to move its tooth 0 into and its tooth 0 out of engagement with the left and right threaded portions of the sleeve, respectively, the bell-crank lever B rocked by lever B, the lock-bars e and 1 respectively connected with the arms of leverB, said lock-bar 6 provided with an offset seating on a fixed support, a spring holding said lock-bar e to its seat, and the lever g engaging the lower end of said lock-bar e, and carrying a roller 9 of stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle bar, the work-holder, a progressively-revolving feedwheel connected with said work-holder to move the same progressively lengthwise of the buttonhole, said wheel provided with abutments h and h in the path of roller g on lever g whereby the lock-bar c is unseated and the lever B tilted under the action of its spring as set forth and the 1ook-bar Z moved to stop the vibration of the needle-bar, means for simultaneously stopping therewith the feed-motion of the Work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole, and mechanism for progressively moving said work-holder crosswise and simultaneously reciprooatin g the same lengthwise of the buttonhole while the needle-bar right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and having endwise motion on said'shaft, the T-lever B, the bell-crank lever B rocked by said lever B, the lock-bars e and Z respectively connected with the arms of lever B,the

lever g engaging the lower end of lock-bar 6,

said bar provided with an offset seating on a fixed support, and the lever 11 extending through a slot in lock-bar e and provided with a depending pin i of the stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar, the work-holder comprising a carrier-slide having motion lengthwise and crosswise of the buttonhole and provided with the slots the work-holder proper having motion with said slide and independently thereof lengthwise of the buttonhole, the progressively-revolving feed-wheel h having feed-groove m, feed-flange n, and abutments h h2 in the path of the roller g on lever g, and suitable connections between the work-holder and the said feed groove and flange, respectively, substantially as andfor the purpose set forth.

15. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar, the work-holder, feed mechanism for imparting to said Work-holder a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, and a lock-bar for locking the needlebar against vibration; of the main drivingshaft, a right and left threaded sleeve revolving with and having endwise motion on said shaft, the T-lever B having teeth a c, the latter held in engagement with said leftthreaded portion of the sleeve, the abutment 'a thereon in the path of said tooth and whereby said lever is tilted to move tooth 0 out of engagement with the left-threaded portion and tooth c'into engagement with the right lengthwise of slide q and means for locking carrier q to slide g by frictional contact, for the purpose set forth. I

17. The combination with the stitch-formin g appliances, the slides S and q connected to allow the slide q to move independently of slide S lengthwise thereof; of the work-holder its carrier q provided with an elongated con cave recess in its upper face, means for reciprocating said carrier lengthwise of slide q, the lock-plate 1" hinged to the latter and pro- ,vided with a convex boss r seated in the aforesaid recess in carrier q and a spring exerting its power on said lock-plate, for the purpose set forth.

18. The combination with the slides S and q connected to allow slide q to move independently of slide S lengthwise thereof, the workholder comprising the carrier (1 carrying the work-plate and provided with a concave recess in its upper face, a clamping-jaw pivoted to said carrier and provided with a stud on each side, a support 3 for said jaw having its outer end forked, the arms of the fork being slotted longitudinally for the reception of the studs on the jaw, said support hinged to slide q, the lock-platter hinged to the pintle of the support and having bearing on slide q and the spring 1" interposed between the rear end of support 8 and said lock-plate, for the purpose set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

' JULIUS GUTMANN. Vitnesses: [HENRY HASPER, W. HAUPT. 

